Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Couture Must Sparkle: And Quickly

Dear Kristin,
I had a whole post full of words.  It disappeared.   So now, instead, I give you pictures.  You can fill in the blanks.  Maybe it's better if this peanut gallery shuts up from time to time anyway, yes?

Peanut gallery wants to speak!  Elie Saab always does sparkle.  But is it interesting enough? Love the sleeves and shape of the bodice on the third, but the second is my second favorite dress ever (ever = this season). 

Backs.  At Givenchy.  The fronts were fine, but missing this kind of structured drama.  Or something.

All of it.  Dior took the best pictures, though it wasn't my number one.  Close.  Raf Simons (from Jil Sander) does good.  So good.  Damn.

What's that mask, Margeila? (Har, har.) These are awesome. Some looks were less awesome. These, though, so refreshing.  Like sparkling lemonade & vodka, sipped out of a black licorice straw, amiright?
Armani Prive is a wee bit 90s, no?  It's certainly growing on me.  I might be falling in love.

And this hardly needs growing.  My favorite from every last collection this couture season. Making it my first favorite.


Chanel, the disappointment.  But these are nice.  Too much of it was ho-hum or weirdly difficult (like, highly unflattering in a non-theatrical way) and some of it was just wrong in basic ways (a gown of pink pom-poms is risk that need not be taken).   Still, a handful were right.

Valentino, the tops.  A whole collection.  Wonderful to watch--the pieces move so well--but oddly tricky to collage.

Couldn't help but include a few extra dresses in the background, as they were walking away.

Pleated red cape; bejewelled nighttime peasant gown; satinish sleep pants; black slash like a shadow.
Self-described at Valentino as: "Regal beauty...sensual but severe."


Sumptuous, but also kinda funereal.  Sparkles without sparkling too hard.  Every piece is meant to move and, when moving. every piece shimmers.  Lots of weight games: gowns and capes that floated, sleeves that  seemed to rest just above the skin, and heavy jackets that anchored shit down.  Still, rather somber in photographs.

Also loved: Sashes on capes and ribbons, tied at the neck like 90s chokers.


Okay, you pick your favorites now, pleasethanks.

J. Benny